01 / ABOUT THE PLACE
About this place
Set in Bunkyo Ward's Hakusan neighbourhood, Unagi Nakajima follows the jiyaki style of unagi cooking: each eel is cut and skewered right after the order is placed, then grilled over charcoal without any steaming. By skipping the steaming step common in Tokyo, the skin crisps up with deep aromatic char while the flesh holds onto its natural richness and tender succulence. From the counter seats, guests can watch the chef's practiced movements up close—slicing, skewering, and tending the charcoal bed—turning the anticipation into an integral part of the meal.
Light tare sauce and fresh sansho accentuate the unagi
The grilled unagi kabayaki comes in standard (nami), superior (jo), and special (toku-jo) grades, available either over rice in a lacquered box (unaju) or as a set meal (teishoku). The accompanying tare glaze is light and restrained in sweetness, allowing the inherent flavour of the freshwater eel to shine, and diners can add extra sauce from the tabletop condiment to suit their taste. What leaves an especially lasting impression is the fresh sansho pepper served on the side; unlike powdered dried sansho, its bright, zesty aroma and gentle tingling numbness cut neatly through the rich richness of the grilled eel.
Varied skewers and specialty drinks while you wait
While waiting for the unaju to be grilled, ordering a few skewers is well worth considering. Offerings include kurikara (coiled fillets), kabuto (head), barami (belly strips), and hire (fin), alongside intensely savoury liver skewers (kimo-kushi) and crunchy fried bone crackers (hone-senbei), providing a great showcase for the varied textures of the eel. Drinks are equally distinctive, spanning crisp sansho beer, sake labels like Kokuryu, and non-alcoholic options such as house-made ginger and sansho juices.
Planning a leisurely visit in an intimate setting
The restaurant features a compact dining room centred around counter seats with a few tables, offering a calm, focused atmosphere for eating. Tasting courses that explore wild or regionally sourced eels alongside unglazed shirayaki can be arranged with reservations at least two days in advance. Given the limited seating, booking ahead is recommended whether dining alone or with company.
